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Dress Boots Construction - Men's Chukka, Lace-Up And Chelsea Boots

What is it about men's dress boots construction that makes them so…

Durable Masculine Stylish And sometimes… EXPENSIVE?

I destroyed one with a TABLE SAW to find out.

This article is going to be your ultimate guide to dress boots construction, the different styles such as lace-up boots, Chelsea boots, and chukka boots, and how to wear each one.

The boots in this video were provided by Thursday Boots. Thursday Boots are built for work & play. Their durable and stylish men's boots have a buttery soft inner glove lining, an EVA comfort strip, and a cork bed midsole that molds to the foot.

Which is probably why they were happy to give me a free pair to dissect on camera. Thanks, guys!

Click Here To Watch The Video – Men's Quality Dress Boots Construction Explained – Ultimate Man's Guide

1. Men's Dress Boots Construction – Anatomy Of A Dress Boot

The Upper

Here we have all of the components of dress boots construction found above the sole. These are the parts that make men's dress boots attractive and affect circulation (allowing air to enter and keep feet at a constant temperature).

Quarter: covers the back and sides of the boot. It’s wrapped around the heel and connects to the vamp.

Lining: adds more durability and protection. It can be made of leather, fabric or synthetics. The lining on the insole is called “the sock.”

Tongue: the flap going underneath the laces to cover the throat. It prevents dirt and water from entering the dress boots.

Lacing: where the bootlaces are found.

Throat: the central part formed by the seam that joins together the vamp and the quarter.

dress boots construction full infographic

Men's Dress Boots Construction

Eyelets: the small round holes (often fixed with metal rings) through which the laces are tied.

Vamp: the front area that protects the instep.

Toe: the flattish portion that extends from the vamp. It fully covers the toes up to the tip where it joins with the sole.

Welt: the border of the boot. It’s typically made of leather and is sewn along the edge of the upper.

The Sole And Below

The following are the parts of dress boots that support the bottom of your foot and provide balance and comfort.

Insole: the base for the foot that anchors together all parts of the upper.

Outsole: the durable outer sole of the boot. Ideally it’s waterproof and resistant to slips or skids.

Heel: the raised component that’s found underneath the back of the sole. It lessens the impact of the ground on the heel of your foot.

dress boots construction stacked heel

Men's Dress Boots Construction – Stacked Heel

dress boots construction hollow heel

Men's Dress Boots Construction – Hollow Heel

Shank: made of metal or plastic plates that are built into the sole. It reinforces stability and prevents the boot from distortions while it’s worn. Dress boots with wedged soles or low heels don’t need a shank.

2. Men's Dress Boots Construction – Cemented Soles dress boots construction cemented

Men's Dress Boots Construction – Cemented Sole

STYLE VIDEOS

Cemented Sole Construction Method:

Cemented soles are also known as bonded soles or glued soles (or “stuck on construction” in the UK).

After the upper is shaped around the last, the sole is attached with a special, durable adhesive – commonly known as cement. There are no welts.

Cemented Sole Construction Advantages:

Cementing is quick and inexpensive, meaning cemented dress boots are priced more aggressively than their Blake Stitch and Goodyear Welt cousins.

Cemented Sole Construction Disadvantages:

The speed of attaching the sole via cementing can negatively affect the permanence of the bond to the sole. You cannot repair a cemented sole once the sole starts to detach. If this happens, it must be replaced.

While we're talking about dress boots – check out my video on the Boot Effect: why boots make you more attractive.

3. Men's Dress Boots Construction – Blake Stitch dress boots construction blake stitch

Men's Dress Boots Construction – Blake Stitch

Blake Stitch Method:

The Blake Stitch dress boots construction method is a huge step up in quality from the cemented method. Instead of glue or cement, it involves stitching the upper to the sole.

Italian dress boots are made with Blake Stitching because it creates a very sleek-looking dress boot of high quality.

Blake Stitch Advantages:

Blake Stitching is less expensive and just as durable as the Goodyear Welt (which we'll come to next). Some men find Blake Stitching more comfortable.

Due to the absence of exterior stitching, The Blake Stitch enables boots to have a closer-cut sole, meaning the body of the Outsole can be cut closer to the upper.

Blake Stitching is flexible, which is beneficial for movement, comfort, and durability.

Blake Stitch Disadvantages:

The Blake Stitch sole has fewer layers than the Goodyear Welt, which reduces water resistance (although depending on the types of material used this issue can be remedied).

Resoling can be difficult because it requires a Blake machine – but if your cobbler has one, this is an easy process.

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3. Men's Dress Boots Construction – Goodyear Welt dress boots construction goodyear welt

Men's Dress Boots Construction – Goodyear Welt

Goodyear Welt Method:

A shoemaker uses a last to shape the upper and fasten it by sewing a leather, linen or synthetic strip (“welt”) to the inner and upper sole.

The dress boot's sole is attached to the welt by a rapid stitch, and a high strength adhesive like contact cement or hide glue is used to attach the sole to the welt.

Goodyear Welt Advantages:

The Goodyear Welt boot construction method is relatively waterproof and minimizes water penetration into the insole.

Resoling is simple if the upper remains viable and Goodyear Welts have been characterized as the most durable (although a Blake Stitch is just as durable).

Additionally, the welt forms a cavity filled with cork which can make a good mold for your foot after years of wear.

Goodyear Welt Disadvantages:

Welted boots are more expensive to manufacture than those produced by automated machinery. Some gentlemen find the interior stitching less comfortable than the Blake Stitch method of dress boots construction.

mens dress shoe guide

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3. Types of Men's Dress Boots

There are three major categories of dress boots every guy should be aware of: Chukka boots, Chelsea boots, and lace-up boots. I'm breaking down each type in terms of style and lacing, as well as the advantages to wearing each one.

Lace-Up Boot

The lace-up boot is pretty much an ankle-high version of the dress shoe. History shows the first of its kind was worn by Prince Albert, who asked for something he could wear on the grouse fields of his Scottish estate and that also looked stylish indoors. The boot is a great alternative to Oxford or Derby shoes – they share similar degrees of classiness.

thursday boots

Click here to grab these men's Derby lace-up boots from Thursday Boots.

LacingBoth Oxford and Derby systems are suitable for lace-up boots. Whether one works better than the other depends on the boot design and purpose.

StyleIn general, these boots function as casual/business casual wear. However, you can make an exception for black ones on professional occasions. Formal footwear is traditionally made of patent leather but a pair of sleek black lace-up boots is now acceptable.

AdvantagesSince lace-up boots are similar to dress shoes, they share a simple aesthetic that's easy to pair with a good suit. They are smart and timeless classics (especially the closed-laced ones). These boots add class and originality to your outfits.

Pairing Tips:

Versatile – Can be worn with a suit, trousers, denim, and corduroy – though they are commonly known as dress boots. For a more modern dressy look, a wide 2-inch cuff in slim trousers will pull the pant leg down and allow it to drape naturally Wear trouser socks with dressier aesthetics and thicker cotton socks with casual looks Wear with denim with a cuff or no cuff. The cuffed look is more metropolitan and no cuff is more conservative Wear with top coats and navy jackets

Chelsea Boot

The Chelsea boot goes all the way back to the Victorian era when men and women first wore it. Queen Victoria herself was known to walk in a pair every day. The ‘60s saw the boot become iconic all over the UK (as well as internationally) when The Beatles commissioned a special version with pointed toes and Cuban heels.

black chelsea thursday boots

Click here to get these durable, stylish men's Chelsea boots from Thursday Boots.

LacingThese ankle-high boots are laceless. You slip them on and get them off just as easily by pulling the loop of fabric at the back.

StyleChelsea boots work in both formal and casual situations. It doesn’t matter if it’s a suit or a blazer, whether your pants are dress slacks or designer jeans. These boots are great to wear most of the time. The key is picking the right color – black, brown, oxblood etc.

AdvantagesThese lace-free boots have elastic panels on either side of the quarter (part of their signature style). The panels keep them close-fitting and breathable inside. So for those who enjoy walking and horseback riding – Chelsea boots give them equal degrees of tightness and comfort.

The Chelsea Boots' popularity is largely due to the Beatles – it was frequently worn by the iconic band.

Chelsea boots are close-fitting, ankle-high boots. There is an elastic side panel which allows the wearer’s foot to slide in easily.

Most Chelsea boots have a loop or tab of fabric on the back of the boot that allows you to pull the boot up with ease.

Pairing Tips:

Versatile – Pair with suits, jeans, or trousers Go for tapered or narrow pants for a slimming effect Your pants should cover the top of your boot about ½ inch to ¾ of an inch Wearing trousers? Avoid breaks. Wearing jeans – some break is allowed. The fit should be snug but not too tight as the vamp of the shoe is narrow and you don’t want your toes to crowd and bulge out Wear trouser socks instead of thick athletic socks due to the snug fit. Sport with pea coats and top coats

3C: Chukka Boot

Many believe Chukka boots originated in India among British soldiers who enjoyed playing polo. It was in 1924 when it reached US soil courtesy of the Duke of Windsor (who had also played polo and traveled to India). The name is a modification of “chukker” – the period of play in polo matches. Chukkas broke out in the late ‘40s, and now they’re popular choices for casual and sporty wear.

thursday chukka boots

Click here to grab these dark olive chukka boots from Thursday Boots.

LacingA Chukka boot is comfortable and has three pairs of eyelets.

StyleThe rough-looking leather used to make chukkas is what gives them a strong casual appeal. The upper is made with suede or calfskin while the sole is leather-based. Both sections are traditionally made with contrasting colors.

AdvantagesUnlike other boots chukkas feel light and loose when walking around in them. There's enough foot protection through their leather-based uppers and sturdy outsoles.

Another advantage is their flexibility as footwear. They’re great with relaxed outfits such as a t-shirt and nice jeans. If you want something dressier like a sports jacket and slacks, these boots will work just as well. That dressing up/dressing down convenience is why many young men enjoy wearing chukkas.

Pairing Tips:

A casual boot Wear with denim, chinos/khakis, or corduroy Thicker casual socks can be worn as the vamp is wider and rounded A denim slightly above the upper of the boot to show a patterned sock is acceptable.

3D: Desert Boot

Desert boots are the most popular version of the Chukka today. They were first designed as comfortable and practical footwear for the British Army during World War II.

Soldiers would use them for downtime while they were in the desert.

These boots also use Derby lacing and share the same advantages as any chukka boot. But desert boots have a slightly different style. They have either 2 or 3 pairs of eyelets and a sole made of crepe (a strong rubber) instead of leather.

Another thing about them is the stitching around the sole – which isn't as visible on other chukkas. This is what makes them look more casual.

4. Men's Dress Boots Construction – Lacing Systems

4A: Derby (Open)

Derby or open-laced refers to boots that have eyelets sewn on top of the vamp. It's also called “crisscross lacing” and works well for chukkas and less formal boots. The lacing can be made looser or tighter depending on your preference.

PurposeDerby lacing started in the mid-19th century on boots and shoes that were used for hunting and sport. Only in the 20th century did more men start wearing them in the city. People soon found open-laced footwear more comfortable than closed-laced because of the expandable upper. Men these days still enjoy Derbies for relaxed casual attire.

4B: Oxford (Closed)

Meanwhile, Oxford lacing has eyelets stitched under the vamp instead of above it. The vamp itself is sewn on top of the quarters while the tongue is an underlying part of it. The proper technique to lace Oxford boots is horizontally and parallel. The final look – neat horizontal lines – can be achieved in multiple ways but some aren’t as easy as others to tighten.

PurposeThese boots give significantly less upper allowance than open-laced boots. It’s that tight and neat lacing that makes them more formal choices. They are great for black-tie events and situations where you want to showcase your best self.

4C: Laceless (Slip-On)

The name says it all: no laces or tying up. The current popularity of slip-on boots (particularly with Chelsea boots) proves that unconventional-looking footwear can be stylish.

PurposeConvenience is the number-one plus point with laceless boots. Because of flexible panels and loops at the back these boots are easy to wear and take off. Black versions go really well with suits and business attires.

5. Men's Dress Boots Construction – Toe Types

Plain ToeToes on these boots are devoid of any lines. The toe and vamp merge to make everything look clean and minimalistic. That translates to extremely plain for some people.

Cap ToeCap toes are by far the most traditional type. Only the edge is patterned (normally with broguing) and this keeps the boots sleek and classy. They’re the most preferred design for business settings. But granted they might look boring when frequently worn in and out of the office.

Wingtip ToeThis edgier version of the cap toe has a pattern that spreads from the center point towards the sides. These wing-like details make the boots less chic but more interesting. Wingtip toes are perfect for casual wear.

Wingtip MedallionThe most decorative type, it’s a more complex version of the wingtip toe with stitching or broguing on the toe’s surface. The busy-looking patterns of wingtip medallions make them far more casual (and showy) than the rest.

An Additional ReminderRemember that proportions matter when it comes to boots. It’s crucial to always take the boot’s shape into account whenever you buy trousers with a certain fit – and vice-versa.

The trick to managing boot proportions: wear straight leg or slim fit jeans. This accentuates the boots’ shape and style.

Always make sure your pants aren’t covering the boots beyond an inch or two. You don't want them looking like another pair of shoes! Cuff your jeans or have the pants altered if necessary.

Whatever type of dress boots you choose, make sure you know the proper way to clean, condition, and polish your boots. Regardless of how good your dress boots construction is, they won't last long if you don't take care of them. 

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